HOW TO GUIDES - Tips & Tricks to Customize Your Own Figures

Here are a few Links to some useful guides I have found on the internet

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I love this idea of having a list of resources. I always have questions & I'm willing to learn new tricks.

Once of the most useful things I have found...........

If you use Testors or Model Master's acrylic paints to customize your figures with, you can easily remove the paint using simple Windex (US glass cleaner product) to remove the paint and try your customizations again.
The original paint will remain intact. (well, at least in all my tests on normal Kenner figures).

Simply soak the figure or parts in the liquid for 10 minutes and check. Use a cotton swab and the new paint should remove easily. If not, put back in and keep checking every 10 minutes until it removes with ease. Shouldn't take more than 30 minutes in my experience.

cheers!
J

For printing custom driods decals, there are a few good sheets out there.

Clint has some good sticker paper he uses, so I hope he posts a link to what he uses.
I've used LD Glossy Sticker Paper with OK results (this does need a helper glue stick to make it stick better though)...

Some examples of mine........

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cheers!

The label sheet that I use for my droid decals is from OnlineLabels.com  product # OL713WG white glossy for inkjet printers 8.5x11. It's a product from the US. For those outside the US, be careful of import charges.
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When I first found this paper, it was promoted for home made wine labels.
Hope this helps.

Hey I had a couple questions for anyone here in the know; First off, when it comes to printing your own replacement stickers, are there any methods available for die cutting the stickers, or does it just require a manual cut. I see the die cut for sale on eBay, and I would prefer this for everything to stay uniform; I just am looking for a cheaper alternative than buying them online.

Secondly, do you have any tips for stripping DSD and 3PO? I've been using bleach, and a low boil if needed. I'm getting mixed results and not having much luck with maintaining the boil to keep from damaging the figure. (although I have noticed that if timed just right it will take loose limbs and make them tight again!)

Thanks for any input. I am new to customizing and have much to learn!

Welcome to the site man


This is what I use to strip the chrome off droids ...

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any heavy duty degreaser product or brand would probably work just as well though .

Just soak the figures in a container full of the degreaser - pull out occasionally to scrub with a toothbrush . It usually only takes a few hours if you work at it but you can just let them soak overnight if you need to .

I was told to use brake fluid when I 1st started but it takes way longer and tends to eat up the metal rivet on the back

Here is the product that I use for stripping DSD & 3PO's. It's an automotive degreaser. Just put some in an old glass jar and leave the figure in it for approx. 30 min. to a few hours. Depends on how much finish is left on the figure. Use an old tooth brush to scrub the remaining little bits off. Then take the figure and rinse it off under the tap. You can buy this stuff in smaller quantities, than the amount I'm showing.

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I know James (ourchickenshack) has used break fluid in the past as well, but if I remember, he said it sometimes eats at the metal rivet on the back.

As far as stickers, just use a ruler & a good utility knife or scalpel, or a good set of scissors. I have a nice pair of curved nail scissors that I use for the droid stickers that I make.

I don't know of any one that can make die cut stickers, without paying someone to do it for them.

Nice, thank you for the info! I also read about the brake fluid, but then found some horror stories about it completely slagging the figures and ruining them. I most certainly did not want that to happen! The bleach and boil process takes a long time and doesn't work that great in my opinion. This sounds much more promising!

Thanks again for the info and the welcome!

I kind of figured it would not be so simple to get die cut stickers, but doesn't hurt to ask!

Thanks again to both of you for the great info!

Hey, has anyone here tried to make their own custom cockpit glass for vehicles? I have been finding some junk ships at thrift stores lately and picking them up for customizing, but they never have the cockpit glass/hatch. Always the main piece missing. When they actually show up on eBay, they aren't worth the asking price...might as well buy a new one for what they want. Anyways, I have had some ideas, but thought maybe someone here would have some more insight. Thanks!

psybertech wrote:For printing custom driods decals, there are a few good sheets out there.

Clint has some good sticker paper he uses, so I hope he posts a link to what he uses.
I've used LD Glossy Sticker Paper with OK results (this does need a helper glue stick to make it stick better though)...

Some examples of mine........

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cheers!

shoulda done the GIANTS and MEts but cool nonetheless

hellhippie wrote:shoulda done the GIANTS and MEts but cool nonetheless

Jay is a huge Rangers fan, but we won't hold it against him. Go Leafs Go, oh wait. Go Canucks, oh wait. Go Ottawa, what, them too. Go Calgary, damn, I give up.

So, I picked up Tamiya's Liquid Surface Primer (brush on) at my local hobby shop the other week.  I've never used anything but their Fine Surface Primer in the spray can (it's too cold to spray anything outside now).  And the other night, I was testing the liquid primer out.  I normally use Isopropyl Alcohol to clean & thin my acrylic paints & brushes.  But the brush didn't clean up very well.  So I did some searching on the almighty internet, and it suggested using "Denatured Alchohol".  It's apparently mostly "Ethanol" here in Canada.  I went to my local hardware store last night and picked up a 4L jug of the stuff.  Has anyone else run into this problem with cleaning your brushes after using primer paint?  If so, what do you use?

ourchickenshack wrote:I've always used water to thin my paints but I use Testors Model Master paints .

Is there a advantage to using alcohol to thin the paints ?

Thanks James, I'll see if the hobby shop has that brush cleaner as well. The one hobby shop near by, has finally brought in the Testors Model Master acylic paints as well. I'm going to give that brand of paint a try. I have a blue droid, that I'm working on, that I can't find a tamiya paint colour to match the sticker.

When I started using the Tamiya acrylic paints, I read some where about using the Isoproyl alcohol to thin the paint and clean the brushes. It's been working great, until this primer paint.

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James, I can't remember if you use a clear coat on your customs?  If you do, is this the one that you use?
I need to use a brushable option, that I can use inside the house.  My normal clear coat is from Tamiya and in a spray can, but it has to be above 10˚C outside to use it, and that's just not going to happen here for a while.

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It is the brand I use but I haven't ever tried the "Flat" kind .

I've only used gloss and semi gloss and actually didn't even know there is a flat version .

ourchickenshack wrote:It is the brand I use but I haven't ever tried the "Flat" kind .

I've only used gloss and semi gloss and actually didn't even know there is a flat version .

Awesome. I always try to use flat or semi gloss.

Any tips on using it, or is it simply brush it on and let it dry?

I just brush it own quickly and let it dry

Was just having a read through this thread for the first time. Made me a bit sad seeing Jay's old posts. Miss that guy....

ChristianC wrote:Was just having a read through this thread for the first time. Made me a bit sad seeing Jay's old posts. Miss that guy....

We all miss having Jay around.

ourchickenshack wrote:I just brush it own quickly and let it dry

James, that stuff worked great last night.   It has a slight learning curve though.  You have to be careful not to put too much on, and clean the brush often.  Especially when working with white pieces.
I really enjoyed the fact, that there was no strong smell from it, and it dried quickly.

I managed to clear coat all the remaining pieces that I was working on.

ourchickenshack wrote:

Something I did that is handy is adding the stickers on top of the jars with the color name and a spot of the actual paint so its easy to see what a color looks like after it dries

That's a fantastic idea.

James, I know you and I have discussed shipping paint before.  For everyone else, be careful.  Because Canada customs considers paint a hazardous & flammable material, you can't ship across boarders.  I think you can carry it, but you can't ship it.  So everyone will have to check with your countries laws on shipping paint.

edit, there should be lots of paints available locally, but if not, you can always do what I did, and set up a post office box in Buffalo, NY.. So I just have to stop and pick packages up when I'm across the boarder, shopping.

I love the idea of using the on-line sites to look for paint. I just never remember to search for them.

Good heads up on the shipping paint across boarders - I guess its so easy for me to get in the states that I forgot about the customs worries

Yes scouring ebay for large paint lots was how I built my selection . I seriously doubt I spent more then $150 and , at $4 a jar , I would have spent $500 at the hobby store