Straightening a MOC's Cardback: Can it be done?

I've got this 3po 12-back that's bent right through the middle. This bend has clearly caused some seperation of the corners of the bubble though it still appears to be sealed and the bubble doesn't move or look open.

Just curious if any of you have ever tried to straighten or flatten a card like this, or if you think it's even worth the risk.

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Hopefully some of the MOC collectors will be able to help.

I would think if you carefully put a heavy book on the creased part for a while, it should start to flatten out.

I was thinking that but since part of the crease is on the edge of the bubble I'm a bit worried that it will cause further separation of the bubble.

I'm hoping there is a technique that I'm not aware of.

I don't suppose you got a before and after pic? For some reason I can't see that making much difference on this one.

It'll take time, but it can be done by placing it under a heavy object like a book. Give it at least a couple of weeks, if not longer. If you are exceptionally careful, it is possible to use an iron for better and faster results, but you're using heat and moisture, so one mistake, and the card and/or bubble are in worse shape than they are now.

However, if there is a noticeable crease line where the bend is, there is no point. It won't change the value at that point.

Ian

It's about as low value as a 12 back can get already, I really just want to do it so it sits nicer in the case and doesn't look as distorted. I'm just worried about the bubble coming off so I might just go the book route.

Do you think I should be concerned about the book surface touching the card? Maybe a acid free comic bag or something in between might be better. If I detached the bubble I'd be so ashamed lol I don't suspect I'll buy anymore 12 backs unless they're this condition or worse.

On some level I think I compulsively bought it because it looked like a ripe target for somebody who wanted a crazy AFA U-Grade. Had to avoid that from happening.

You could try using a 6x9" "top loader" storage jacket to secure and flatten the card. I remember a discussion on TIG a few years back, about using them for bubbles that are starting to detach. I'll have to find the thread later.

Interesting so you'd just cut a section for the bubble in advance. Might look pretty rough like that but it could straighten it over time I suppose.

Just plan out where the hole gets cut & take your time cutting it out.  You might be surprised how good it looks.

in my experience with my beater mocs id leave it be. you can cause a visible stress line

Here's a link to a thread at Rebel Scum with some pretty detailed instructions on using the top loader method Clint mentioned

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Thanks for the link, that seems like it might be a less dangerous method.

Wow, a Ledy Lando on card.
Nice one, Andy!

Dr Dengar wrote:Wow, a Ledy Lando on card.
Nice one, Andy!

Yeah that is pretty beautiful I kinda wish my 41A had the teeth paint. So much more "Lando" lol even though I suppose the no paint is technically older (right?)

This method kinda seems like a final display format but my 3po came a uv resistant afa case so I'd really rather return it to that once it looks a little better. The book method might be more effective.

Too much responsibility lol if only it were a Jedi card so I wouldn't be so afraid.

It's a low value 12 back but still lol don't want to shave one off the population by a false step.

Damn that's a nice Ledy card Andy
I used the top loader method to help straighten my Top Toys Darth Vader MOC. The card has a wave to it and the bubble was lifting a bit on the bottom corner. The top loader helped to flatten the card and secure the bubble.

For cards in my collection with some solid curves to them, I have take two pieces of wood about an inch or so thick, cut them both to match the dimensions of the card, then cut out a space for the bubble on one of the pieces, and then sand the pieces so they are as smooth as a baby's butt.  Then take a hand held steamer and steam both sides of the card quickly (careful not to get too close to the bubble and of course don't soak the card - just get it hot and slightly damp) before putting it between the two pieces of wood as follows:  place a piece of wax paper on each piece of the wood so that the damp card does not stick to the wood and immediately close and put pressure on the two sides.  Use two or three C-clamps and put as much pressure on the contraption as possible.  Let it stay that way for a week or two, and your card will be as flat as a board.  

In my experience, the "heavy book" method doesn't work as it doesn't apply enough pressure to make a difference. The use of the C-clamps with this method applies the requisite pressure to make a difference. Good luck!

Ross_Barr wrote:For cards in my collection with some solid curves to them, I have take two pieces of wood about an inch or so thick, cut them both to match the dimensions of the card, then cut out a space for the bubble on one of the pieces, and then sand the pieces so they are as smooth as a baby's butt.  Then take a hand held steamer and steam both sides of the card quickly (careful not to get too close to the bubble and of course don't soak the card - just get it hot and slightly damp) before putting it between the two pieces of wood as follows:  place a piece of wax paper on each piece of the wood so that the damp card does not stick to the wood and immediately close and put pressure on the two sides.  Use two or three C-clamps and put as much pressure on the contraption as possible.  Let it stay that way for a week or two, and your card will be as flat as a board.  

In my experience, the "heavy book" method doesn't work as it doesn't apply enough pressure to make a difference.  The use of the C-clamps with this method applies the requisite pressure to make a difference.  Good luck!

Ross, Thanks for the input. That's another great option.

Gave it a shot with some books but I suppose I needed to leave it longer. That said I did get about a 15-20% improvement.

Well, the card has spent years in its curved shape. It can take several weeks for any corrective action to make significant improvement.

Ian

For me I tend to leave them as I got them it shows history of what the cards went through as well as any price stickers are left on that shows where they have been. I see lots of collectors who like to remove the price sticker which I personally don't get.

Yeah I'm starting to think that way Larry, mostly out of the abject fear that he is just going to randomly fall off of his card to my complete and utter horror.

My one attempt did some good and as far as I can tell, I didn't make it any worse.